For the last two years I’ve had the privilege of swimming with whales in Mo’orea, French Polynesia. It has always been my dream to swim with Humpbacks and after my first swim in Tonga 2017, I was hooked. This year was my third swim with these gentle giants and it did not disappoint. Through photography, I am excited to share that experience with others.
There are only a few places in the world where you can swim in the water with humpback whales. The more well known region is the Kingdom of Tonga but other locations include French Polynesia, Silver Banks (Dominican Republic), and Reunion Island east of Madagascar. Whale season in French Polynesia typically starts in July and ends in the beginning of November. They migrate to the warm waters of French Polynesia from Antarctica to give birth and mate. During these months, they do not eat at all, relying solely on their fat reserves from earlier in the year.
Swimming with humpbacks is snorkel only. Most countries have strict rules in interacting with these huge cetaceans. Generally operators take only small groups. The Kingdom of Tonga has very strict rules and only allow 4 guests in the water at one time with the whale to facilitate a positive interaction. The rules are a little more lax in French Polynesia so beware operators that take dozens of tourists out at once - you might see a whale but the interaction may be fairly brief or non existent.
French Polynesia is located almost directly south of the Hawaiian islands. It is a 8 - 9 hr flight from LAX. Flights typically land in the main city of Papeete which is located on the island of Tahiti. From there, a short ferry ride brings you to the lush paradise of Mo’orea. It’s a tiny island of 51.74 square miles. It is popular among French tourists and many of the native Islanders only speak Polynesian or French. The Island is dotted with tiny resorts, many built on stilts over the water.
Other than a snorkel, mask, and fins, you do not need any special equipment. I use free diving fins mainly because each kick will propel me through the water farther. In general these interactions are safe if you are aware of your surroundings. Humpback whales are not aggressive and during these months, spend most of their time sleeping, socializing, or caring for their young.
For the last two years, I experienced a special treat. It has also always been my dream to swim with one of the boldest shark species - the oceanic white tip shark. While not the biggest shark out there, they are scavengers and are always on the lookout for an easy meal. They tend to follow pods of pilot whales so if you are not a fan, beware when swimming with pilot whales! There is a good chance a oceanic white tip is nearby.
2018 was a bit rough weather wise. The first few days we had choppy waters. It was hard to see the whales and we barely got in the water at all. However, good things come to those who wait and on the last day we were rewarded with two whales that were incredibly calm and did not mind our presence at all. They would alternate coming up for air after sleeping. Adult whales typically sleep in 20 - 30 minute intervals underwater before surfacing to breathe. One of the whales in particular would surface extremely close, sometimes almost touching. When you are only a few feet away from an enormous whale, that experience is life changing!
If you aren’t into whales or are looking for other things to do on Mo’orea, I highly recommend checking out Stingray City. Accessible by boat, it is a shallow sand bar inhabited by black tip reef sharks and sting rays. Every day, boats will pull up and tourists can feed the sting rays. It is so shallow you can easily stand.
Sadly, this year I did not experience one of the most amazing interactions you can have with whales - playing with baby. If you are lucky, a momma whale is comfortable enough to let you interact with her calf. Baby humpbacks are incredibly curious and love to check tourists out. I have had these interactions in the past, both in Tonga and Mo’orea 1 year ago but not this year. I guess all the reason to go back in 2019!